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Posts Tagged ‘france’

Saturday morning we were up early to visit the town hall in Roquebrune, where we need to submit all of our paperwork for our civil ceremony. Part of the process is an interview with the mayor (or his delegate) to ensure that the marriage is genuine and to go over all the details for the day.

We were met by the adjunct mayor, a generously proportioned woman with an apparent predilection for sunshine and a disdain for soap. She was our first real brush with the French etat, and represented everything that is bad about the civil service in France. With little genuine power but a keen desire to demonstrate her importance, she decided to throw impediment after impediment in our way. “I’m not sure it’s possible” was her favourite response, and her interpretation of the laws governing marriage changed with the wind.

It was not the most positive meeting I’ve ever had. She seemed unimpressed when I asked whether it would be easier to elope to Las Vegas. I suspect Guantanamo detainees are treated with more respect than she afforded us.

The trauma of the town hall behind us, we headed to a much more agreeable lunch by the port in Frejus – moules frites washed down with a couple of beers. After a brief stop to look at some decorations for the wedding, we were off to Brignoles for a quick chat with the woman coordinating the details at the chateau and a champagne tasting – and then on to ‘test drive’ the hotel and restaurant at the Abbaye de la Celle.

The hotel was absolutely beautiful, with genuinely warm service and a lovely room with our own private garden. We were greeted with two glasses of wine from the vineyard in the back. After we’d settled in, we went into the Alain Ducasse restaurant and had a lovely dinner of asparagus with kumquat sauce, grilled fish with roast potatoes, caramelised pork with stir-fried vegetables, cheese, and a chocolate fondant. The food lived up to the hype – it was a lovely evening. Stuffed to the seams, we trundled off to bed.

Friday was all about wedding plans. And exploring the differences between French and English business practices. And me generally getting frustrated by being dragged around France without accomplishing much.

Our morning started out successfully enough. Aude was up early to get a blood test to get her medical certificate allowing us to be married. Afterwards, we went down to the local doctor together to ask if he would sign my certificate. Certifying precisely nothing, as no blood test is required for men. He signed it, seemingly a little confused with the whole procedure, and took my blood pressure so I didn’t feel like I was walking away empty-handed. 130/70, pretty good considering the stress of planning a wedding.

Apparently in this part of the country, a doctor’s job is more about funerals and less about marriages. Something about changing demographics and all that.

We jumped in the car and made our way to Lorgues to meet with the florist. After a little swearing and sweating on my part, a two-way trip down a one-way street, and a little honking and pointing by the locals, we’d found a place to park. We met with the florist, a colourful little man named Thibault with a partner who looked like a camp version of Gerard Depardieu in Green Card, and went over what we wanted.

Mission accomplished, we set out for our second appointment of the day. Wine tasting. Which, oddly enough, I expected to involve tasting. Of wine. How wrong I was!

No, I was told upon arriving, tasting the wine was no good. It was too early in the afternoon, too close to us having eaten lunch. It wouldn’t be a good tasting. Besides, we hadn’t chosen our wedding menu yet, so any tasting would be meaningless without context. Much better to buy several bottles and try them later with food. It seemed to matter little that I’d dragged myself halfway across Europe to be physically present to taste this wine.

I should probably explain some of the context here. We’re having our wedding reception at a chateau. Part of the deal is that we drink their wine – non-negotiable. So already the wine tasting is a bit of a farce, as we’re stuck with it whether we like it or not.

Second, we’re hardly taking Chateau Lafite. This is ordinary, everyday wine. So arguing about whether our palate was in a suitable state was a little like arguing that I was using the wrong glass and not appreciating the fullness of flavour in my can of Coors.

In the end, we took the wines home and tried them with dinner. The verdict? The Chardonnay was undrinkable plonk (which, even with my lunch-tainted palate, I could have decided in situ at the vineyard) and the blanc de blanc is suitably inoffensive and non-descript. A little bit like Two-Buck Chuck.

The Chateau

The Chateau

The chateau

The chateau

Still smarting from the wine non-tasting incident, we made our way to the chateau to meet with the caterer. In this meeting essentially we agreed that 1) what we’d been promised was possible on the telephone was now no longer possible and 2) that we would certainly have to meet again. It took 90 minutes to ascertain this, and despite my best efforts, the caterer seemed reluctant to simply allow us to sign the paperwork, hand over the deposit, and leave before we’d heard his entire marketing pitch and quite a few pleasantries as well.

The girls posing outside the chateau

The girls posing outside the chateau

Aude is very busy planning everything...

Aude is very busy planning everything…

Our meeting having overrun, cue frantic race down the autoroute in ten-year-old Renault Clio 1.2 to try to make it to Mass at the local church. We managed to slip in just a few minutes late, slightly conspicuously as there were only about 20 other people in the very small chapel. Without the benefit of a prayer book to follow along, I did my best to follow the French service. Thankfully, it was the Passion of Christ – the same reading we’d heard in English the week before in Canterbury. Confusingly, the Mass didn’t follow conventional form – hard enough to follow in English, but even more complicated when you don’t speak the language.

Too much

It’s all too much! Aude hides in the flowers

Aude has been in Paris on a training course for the past four days, so I decided to use this weekend to get some of the errands run. Our stocks of wine are running low, so I decided it was time for a quick run over to Calais to replenish our supplies. Thinking that I had plenty of time, I decided to take the ferry rather than the train to save a few quid – a mistake in the end.

White Cliffs

The famous white cliffs of Dover…

I went over with Seafrance, who have much nicer ferries than either of the other companies. But I picked a rough day with a very choppy crossing, and a fair number of the passengers spent most of their time throwing up. I’m fairly immune to sea-sickness, but there’s something inherently unpleasant about being surrounded by people being sick.

Wine Society

The Wine Society’s shop in Montreuil, or ‘Mecca’ as we prefer to call it…

First stop in France was at the Wine Society. I’d preselected my wines on the ferry, and handed over my completed order form. Ten minutes later and a few hundred euros lighter, the friendly lads at the Wine Society had loaded my car and I was on my way back to Calais to do some food shopping. And aggravating quite a few French drivers at each of the tolls, as I had to get out and run around the car to fetch my tickets (as my steering wheel is on the wrong side and I’ve got no passenger to reach out for me.

Low car

The car is riding a little lower on its suspension, its boot full of wine!

From Montreuil, it was back to Calais to stock up on all the foods that we can’t get in the UK – veal, good coffee, chicory, cured meats, cheeses, and so on. Several hundred more euros later, and the boot was full to bursting.

Cite Europe

Off to Carrefour for a little grocery shopping…

Finally back on the ferry, the rear end of the car scraped over every speed bump I crossed. Next time I’ll rent a van!

Fully laden

The car fully laden, I managed to scrape the rear end going over the speed bumps getting onto the ferry…

The return ferry was much more uneventful than the outbound crossing. I had a nice dinner on the onboard restaurant, surrounded for some reason by loads of Australians. One of whom did her country’s reputation no favours by ordering a steak, well done, and then asking the French waiter if she could have some ketchup to go with it.

And I thought it was only the Americans who were renowned for these sorts of social gaffes.

We’re safely back from Belgium, where we celebrated a French-style new year with Marjory and her friends at their place outside Brussels. Aude had a great time, and I spent most of the trip telling everyone that “J’ai un rhume” and that I was avoiding “faire les bises” so as not to spread my germs. It was international diplomacy at its finest.

Marjory and her friends made a superb dinner that left us all stuffed afterwards. We started foie gras and champagne, then moved on to a starter of tabbouleh with fresh grapefruit and prawns, followed by a salade Perigourdine, then filet mignon in a Roquefort sauce, with cheese and dessert afterwards. It was dinner as only the French can do – plenty of good food to satisfy the senses, plenty of over-indulgence to make sure you don’t do it too often.

As midnight approached, we opened more champagne and the party really started. There was dancing… and music… and bed! At least, there was for me – I realise that the French like to party late into the night, but by about 1:30 my bed was calling me. Two cold tablets and I was out for the count!

The following morning we were treated to a guided tour of Brussels – and I use the word “guided” loosely. Marjory was nominally our guide, but we could have been visiting Moscow for all she knows about the city. My GPS let me down and we got an even more detailed tour of town on the way back to the Chunnel, but we made it in the end, despite technology’s best efforts to send me in the wrong direction.

Foie Gras

Forget your store-bought foie gras. This came from Laure’s grandmother. Well, not actually from her grandmother — more like from her grandmother’s ducks.

Chefs at work in the kitchen

The chefs, hard at work in the kitchen…

Cinderella

Cinderella is sent to do the tidying-up by her evil stepsisters….

A princess

…but she emerges minutes later, transformed into a princess.

The girls

The girls pose for a photo…

The girls

Another photo of the girls (this time Aude’s managed to jump into the frame as well)

The girls

These days, everyone wants to offer instant feedback on the photographer’s efforts!

Salade Perigourdine

Salade Perigourdine, made with Laure’s grandmother’s ducks…

New Years Eve dinner table

The New Years Eve table, set for dinner

Champagne and fireplace

Champagne and a roaring fire — what else do you need for a good night in?

The gang

The whole gang poses for a photo…

Someone's missed the photo

Someone misses that they’ve moved at the last minute and not been included in the group photo. (Actually, he features prominently as the blur in the background!)

Marjo

Marjory gets into the party spirit…

Laure

Laure can’t resist joining into the festitivies herself!

Dancing

Next thing you know, everyone’s dancing…

Not everyone

Not everyone… Some of us know well enough that the safest place to be when dancing breaks out is a little way away, with a glass of champagne in our hands!

Midnight

It’s midnight, and Marjory pops open the fizz…

Audrey

Audrey strutts her stuff on the dancefloor!

Marjo

Marjo pulls a move…

Aude

Aude joins in, thinking it’s Disco Fever…

Julie

Julie gives a pointer or two to the dancers…

Frank

Frank looks on in amazement

Marjo

Once the beat has you, you just can’t stop…

Despite the best efforts of the freezing fog and the bunglings of British Airways, we managed to make it to the Cote d’Azur without too much trouble. We arrived at the airport about two hours before our flight and were herded into large white tents outside to wait until our flight was called to check-in. About half an hour later, we finally made it into the ticketing hall, which was absolutely swamped with people. Between check-in and security, we arrived at the lounge with just enough time for a quick cup of coffee before our flight.

We arrived in Nice to much nicer weather than we’d left at home – warm with clear, sunny skies. Luckily, it stayed this way for the remainder of our trip. We arrived around lunchtime on Christmas Eve and spent the next 48 hours straight eating.

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Aude and her parents on Christmas Eve

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Aude smiles for the camera

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Aude’s father gets the champagne ready to toast the celebration

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Minouche (alive, well, and only a little overweight) practices her hunting skills with her new toy mice

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“Open your oysters risk-free!” proclaims this clever device. Please notice the blood splattered all over the side.

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Oysters to celebrate Christmas. As Gratiane said in her e-mail letter earlier this week, at this time of year the words “oysters”, “salmon”, and “foie gras” trigger a reflex movement to unbutton the first button on our trousers!

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Minouche is very interested in the ornaments.

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Aude’s mother shows off her desserts…

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Aude’s parents’ house, looking warm and inviting in the sun

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Rather a radical change for those of us from cooler places, this is what Christmas looks like in the south of France. Not a flake of snow in sight!

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Aude smiles as she remembers what “sun” is…

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Even Matthew manages a smile…

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All becomes clear. Matthew is smiling because it’s time for more champagne!

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Mandatory “couple” shot for my parents.

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Aude’s father gets ready to carve the Christmas capon. Poor bastard – first he loses his balls, then ends up on our Christmas table. What a way to go. (NB: I’m talking about the capon, not Aude’s father)

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Everyone’s down for a nap after dinner…

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An absolutely beautiful evening looking out over the Mediterranean.

48 hours later, I’m back on the Eurostar again after a grey, cold weekend in Paris. Despite the weather, we had a great time and caught up with some old friends.

I arrived late on Friday night and managed to convince the ticket machine at the Metro to sell me a ticket. French machines, being French, refuse to speak in Foreign, so I was left relying on my schoolboy French to get me across town. That wasn’t a problem, but trying to work out where to stick my money into the machine was – the machine was designed to take coins or credit cards, but not Euro notes – unlike the ticket machines on the Tube. So there I was, stupid tourist, trying to stick notes into a machine that clearly didn’t take them, much to the annoyance of the French.

Having finally convinced the ticket machine to take my credit card, I met Aude and her friend Anne Laure at Bastille for a few drinks. We ended up in a bohemian bar down a side street. The waitress gave me a hard time for being American…

We jumped into a cab and headed for our hotel – a nice enough place, but near the Peripherique (beware Priceline’s interpretation of “near the Eiffel Tower” – we were as near to the Eiffel Tower as I look like George Clooney).

Aude on the Metro

Aude rides the Metro into Central Paris

November in Paris features a special photography month, a subject near and dear to my heart. On Saturday morning we grabbed the Metro into central Paris to see an exhibit entitled “Children of the World” by Kevin Kling (a woman, despite the name) that was being exhibited outside the Jardin du Luxembourg and where we’d seen an exhibition of the best 20th century press photography when we were last in London. It was a great exhibit despite poor weather conditions.

Nuns at the exhibition

A group of nuns take in the exhibition

Aude at the exhibition

Aude looks at one of the photos in the “Children of the World” exhibition

Jardin du Lumembourg

Inside the Jardin du Lumembourg

Jardin du Lumembourg

Inside the Jardin du Lumembourg

Jardin du Lumembourg

Inside the Jardin du Lumembourg

Jardin du Lumembourg

No, not rays of light coming from her head. Rather, something to stop the pigeons crapping down her front.

Jardin du Lumembourg

Sailboat rental

Remembrance Day

It was Remembrance Day in France, with flowers placed on most of the war memorials

Aude does some shopping

We spent a lot of time like this. Never underestimate a woman’s ability to shop!

We were also going to try to see the Henri Cartier-Bresson exhibit – an interest to me because he shot nearly his entire portfolio using a 50mm lens. I’ve just bought a 35mm prime lens (the digital equivalent of a 50mm lens in the digital world, and very close to what the human eye sees naturally) and have been looking for inspiration. The 35mm Nikon lens is acclaimed as one of the best Nikon lenses ever produced, but I can’t seem to get it to work its magic for me. (Incidentally, all of the photos in this blog entry were taken with the 35mm lens – your feedback and constructive criticism is welcome!)

Lunch was a couscous at a restaurant on the Left Bank – with a friendly cat that took to Aude immediately.

Mexican in Paris

Proof that you can also find a Mexican in Paris!

Italian Man

As we walked past an Italian restaurant, Aude suggested I snap a photo of the chap in the window as a potential boyfriend for our friend MG. Innocent as I am, this is what I snapped.

Really Italian man

Proof that Aude is a bigger pervert than me: Laughing at my picture, she pointed out that I’d entirely missed the point (no pun intended). This was the fellow she had in mind!

We decided to walk from the Jardin of Luxembourg towards Monparnasse, where the Cartier-Bresson exhibit was being held, doing some shopping on the way. Cue the first of many times getting lost in Paris (and the first of many sexist jokes from me). Due to a slightly unscheduled detour, we spent the afternoon shopping and gave up on the Cartier-Bresson exhibit due to my aching feet. On the upside, I did get a kiss from a strange woman – it was her hen night and she was kissing every passing man!

Where are we

In a scene that was to become uncomfortably familiar, we find ourselves in front of a map, not knowing quite where we are…

We still had a few hours to kill and needed an activity that didn’t involve a lot of walking, so I suggested we catch a bateau mouche. Cue the second of many times getting lost in Paris. Determined to catch the bateau mouche at Pont Neuf (but holding the map upside-down), we ended up walking around nearly the entire Ile de la Cite before finally giving up. Instead, we went to Plan B and headed for Alcazar, the Conran restaurant I had booked for dinner.
Paris by night

Paris by night

Paris by night

Paris by night

Despite being unable to travel by bateau mouche, I was able to take a few pictures of Paris by night – when Paris is at its most beautiful in my opinion

After an ‘Ultra Violet’ for Aude and a Manhattan for me, plus a couple of kirs, we were in a much better mood. We went downstairs for dinner and had a beautiful meal – Aude started with foie gras and then had venison, I started with escargot (leaving me smelling like a true Frenchman all night) and followed with veal. I asked the sommelier for a wine recommendation and he suggested a Corbieres. When the wine was presented, it was a bottle of vintage Pomerol – lucky I paid attention to his suggestion and didn’t take the wine that arrived at my table – it would have been a very expensive mistake!

Sunday morning we met some old friends from Canterbury for a Moroccan brunch – Alain and Faouzia, Julien and his girlfriend Karine. I did my best to order my breakfast in French, but asked that I be served no eggs – and mixed up my article. Cue more piss-taking from a French waitress (and more muttering of C’est pourquoi tout le monde deteste les Parisiens). Despite clarification from my French-speaking friends, she still screwed up my order. No tip for her – he who laughs last, laughs best.

In any case, it was great to catch up, and my friends were all pleased to hear all the gossip and goings-on that had happened in Canterbury since they’d left (although Julien was ahead of the game, being a regular reader of my blog).

Julien and Karine

Julien & Karine

The gang

Alain, Faouzia, Julien, Karine and Aude outside the restaurant

The gang

Alain, Faouzia, Julien, Karine and Matthew outside the restaurant

L'église Saint Eustache

L’église Saint Eustache

Opera

The Opera

Aude poses for a photo

Aude poses for a photo

Grand Hyatt, Paris

Matthew poses with the smallest flowers he’s ever seen at the Grand Hyatt in Paris

Coffee

Cafe culture – what Paris is a famous for!

Place Vendome

Matthew standing in Place Vendome

Eiffel Tower

No trip to Paris would be complete without a photo of the Eiffel Tower at sunset, would it?

Paris Metro

Paris Metro

We left them mid-afternoon and went for a walk, stopping for a coffee at the Grand Hyatt, then walking down Place Vendome and through the Jardin du Tuleries. Back to the hotel, then we grabbed a cab which took years off my life (and reminded me: I need to update my will) until we finally arrived at Gare du Nord.

Aude on Eurostar

Aude smiles on Eurostar despite her reluctance to go back home

Matthew on Eurostar

Matthew looking somewhat more skeptical

Dinner on Eurostar

Beats a McDonalds!

Dinner on Eurostar

Sauteed veal on Eurostar. Remember when food on the plane was like this?

A few hours later, and here I am again on the Eurostar (today’s celebrity sighting was James Blunt, having a drink in the Eurostar business class lounge), heading back to Canterbury at 300km per hour, eating another lovely dinner and drinking a glass of wine. I trust I’ll be greeted by two very friendly, very hungry looking cats.

Back to work tomorrow, but only for four days – we’re off to a Scottish wedding on Thursday night. Such a jet-setting life we lead. I’ve already packed my man-skirt.