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I am back in Paris after a weekend in Basel, helping Aude to get settled into our new place. They’ve put us in a nice apartment, very close to the main train station and right behind the zoo. Our very friendly relocation agent even came to the station to meet us and gave us a detailed rundown of the flat…including the infamous rules for the shared washing room!

Aude in front of our apartment in Basel

Aude in front of our apartment in Basel

Our apartment in Basel

Our apartment in Basel, near the train station and just behind the zoo

Very red couch

The very red couch in our apartment — something to get us into the Swiss spirit?

Ikea furnishings

Looks like someone found a sale at Ikea

We arrived on Saturday, which was the Swiss National Day holiday. The fireworks in Basel are supposed to be spectacular, but they also take place at midnight on the day before, so we missed them. From what I could tell, celebrations on the day itself were limited to all the shops being closed and a few children setting off small fireworks in the neighbourhood. I expected bands, costumes, and flag-waving, but it wasn’t to be…

We were lucky with the weather on Saturday – a glorious day of sunshine and temperatures of 29C. Our luck wasn’t to last, though – Sunday was overcast and drizzly all day. We took the chance to grab a tram to some of the neighbourhoods that we’re considering for a permanent place, but given the weather, we decided to explore from the tram rather than on foot.

Escargot

Good to know that there is a French restaurant around the corner, in case Aude gets cravings for home

The Basel Rathaus

The Basel Rathaus (Town Hall) in the centre of the city

Enjoying a cold beer

Aude enjoys a cold beer on a hot summer day

Matt drinking beer

Matt is relieved to be back in a city where he can afford to drink a beer.

Gnome

I have no idea what this is, but it’s a little scary, no?

Moo

Moo. Lots of cows in Switzerland.

Frogs

Are these frogs a little creepy, or is it just me?

Basel street scene

Basel street scene

Women in traditional dress

Caught these two women walking down the street, presumably to some sort of celebration for Swiss National Day.

Aude along the Rhine

Aude along the banks of the Rhine

Matt along the Rhine

Matt along the banks of the Rhine

Aude is settled in, and I packed her off to work on Monday morning for her first day, then caught the train back home. She’s been home before 7pm each evening (a real change from Paris!) and reports that the other children are playing nicely with her. I’m back in Paris trying to get the flat ready and tying up loose ends, plus looking after our little four-legged friends…

We’re off to the south of France for Jerome’s wedding this weekend – and crossing our fingers for some sunshine for a change!

Daisy asleep on the bed

Zzzzzzzzzzzzzz….

Actually, it’s a cat’s life. Sometimes I wish my life was as simple as curling up on the bed and snoozing in the sunshine. Which is exactly what I did yesterday afternoon.

I used my last day at work as an excuse for leaving at lunchtime. I came home to find the cats curled up on the freshly-made bed, totally relaxed in the afternoon sunshine, and I couldn’t resist crawling into the bed myself and having a little afternoon snooze.

I won’t lie. It was bliss!


After another long absence, it’s time to update the blog again. As many of you may know, we have decided that it’s time for another change of location, this time to Basel, Switzerland. It’s goodbye to croissants, velibs, Gitanes and dog poop and hello to fondue, trams, yodelling and cows. We have been looking forward to the move for some time now, and we are both excited that it’s finally happening.

The last few weeks have been taken up with all of the administration required to get ready for an international move. I am busy tying up the last loose ends at work, and looking forward to taking the month of August as holiday. The movers have been to inspect the apartment (and concluded what we already knew – that we have a lot of stuff!). The cats have their passports, complete with photographs, although disappointingly not with little paw-prints. Work permits have been applied for and the efficient Swiss administration machine has swung into action.

Aude starts her new job at the beginning of August, so we will travel out to Basel this weekend to get settled into our temporary accommodation. We will arrive just in time to celebrate Swiss National Day, a fitting introduction to our new home.

We have both taken jobs with pharmaceutical companies. For Aude, the work is largely the same as what she was doing in Paris, but for me the role is quite a departure. I will still be working in Finance, but this time I will be sitting on the other side of the fence, as advisee instead of advisor. My responsibilities include all of Asia (except Japan) so I will be spending a lot of time on planes. Still, it brings me back to the original mission of this blog from four years ago – to let friends and family know where I am in the world.

Despite taking August as holiday, there is a lot going on this month. I will be shuttling back-and-forth between Paris and Basel, and Aude’s brother is getting married in the middle of August in the south of France. We have the house to pack, I have vaccinations that need to be updated before I hit Asia again, and doctor / dentist / optometrist appoints to attend to. I intend to squeeze every penny I can out of the French medical system – it seems only fair, given the amount I’ve paid into the system!

September and October look like busy travel months for me, with trips already scheduled to India, Thailand, China, the Philippines and Australia. I have at least one weekend in Asia, so I may try either to visit friends or find a beach where I can relax for a few days. Otherwise, it is a lot of back-and-forth travel between Europe and Asia.

Toy bicycles in a shop window

The local toy shop has decorated its window for the occasion!

Last year, we missed the Tour de France. We were in Paris when the race passed through Canterbury, then in Canterbury when the race passed through Paris. It was ironic, but it meant that we didn’t get to see any of the famous race.

This year, however, the race passed within 100 meters of our apartment, so there was no excuse for not going out and having a look. We met up with Anne-Laure and Neil, who live just down the road, and watched the caravane go by. There weren’t as many people as I expected, so we staked out a good spot and watched the parade go by.

We were listening to the coverage. The riders were taking their time and were still 120km away by the time the caravane went past. So we trundled up to Anne-Laure and Neil’s place to open a nice bottle of rosé and watch the coverage on TV. The rest of the crowds remained in place on the road – two hours of watching nothing! When the riders were about 10km outside of Paris, we headed back downstairs to get a look.

The riders were all together in the peloton – the whole race passed us in 8-10 seconds. Imagine camping out for three hours to catch 8 seconds of action. Great to say that I was there, but not sure I’d rush back to do it again. Cycling is definitely a sport that’s better to watch on TV than up-close and personal!

Tour de France - Police Officers

Police officers block off access to the Quai

Tour de France - Aude in the sun

Aude gets ready to catch the parade

Tour de France - Police Motorcycles

Police motorcycles

Tour de France - Police Motorcycles

Police motorcycles

Tour de France - Crowd

The crowd begins to line the street to watch the caravane pass

Tour de France - LCL Caravane

The first vehicle in the caravane is the LCL rider

Tour de France - LCL Caravane

The LCL lion

Tour de France - Skoda Yeti Caravane

Advertising vehicle for the new Skoda Yeti

Tour de France - Skoda Support Car

The Skoda support car

Tour de France - Haribo Caravane

The Haribo bears coming down the road. No free candy for us, unfortunately.

Tour de France - Haribo Caravane

An army of Haribo cars

Tour de France - Antargaz Caravane

The Antargaz car

Tour de France - Aude

Aude decided to work on her suntan

Tour de France - BBox Caravane

BBox car

Tour de France - PMU Caravane

The PMU cars (PMU is a racing / betting shop)

Tour de France - Ricore Caravane

The Ricore car. Yes, this guy is basically driving a cup of coffee with a spoon sticking out of it.

Tour de France - Press Car

France Info Press car

Tour de France - Panache Caravane

A Panach buggy

Tour de France - Panache Caravane

A rolling Panach four-pack. For me, this was the funniest car that we saw.

Tour de France - Gendarmerie

The first of the Gendarerie Nationale cars

Tour de France - Cochounou Caravane

A 2CV from Cochounou. Sausage, anyone?

Tour de France - Cochounou Caravane

Fact – cute girls sell sausages.

Tour de France - Cochounou Caravane

More sausage-waving

Tour de France - Police Nationale

The Police Nationale out in their new Range Rovers

Tour de France - Caisse Epargne Caravane

The Caisse Epargne truck, complete with cycling giraffe. Of course.

Tour de France - Sapeurs Pompiers

The Sapeurs Pompiers

Neil with camera

Neil gets a good angle

Anne Laure

Anne Laure seems to be enjoying herself

Aude

Another happy fan

Tour de France - Peloton

The moment we were all waiting for — the peloton passing at Pont Neuf

 

We managed to wake up early this morning to go to the famous Paris flea markets at Saint Ouen. I have to admit, it wasn’t quite what I expected. Instead of loads of vendors who set up each morning, the stalls at Saint Ouen are all permanent – closed against the weather, self-contained units that can be locked up each night. As a result, there are quite a few very high-end dealers selling antiques down there.

We managed to come home empty-handed, not least because the prices at the flea market reflect its semi-permanent state: there are no bargains to be had here – dealers shop elsewhere and these products are priced for tourists. Oh well, it was still a fun morning out, worth getting up early for.

Flea Markets at St Ouen

Looking down one of the alleys in the flea markets at Saint Ouen

Hanging lanterns and lamps

Hanging lanterns and lamps outside one of the stalls

Ducks in a row

A line of ducks in a row. Cheeky garden gnomes hiding in the background.

Wooden furniture in piles

Wooden furniture, stacked high at one of the stalls in the market

Tapestries and chairs

Tapestries and chairs along a wall in the market

Wicker baskets

Wicker baskets outside a stall

The afternoon was a last chance to enjoy our four-day weekend (well, until next weekend, when we have a three-day weekend. There are some upsides of living in France, and the number of public holidays over the summer months is definitely one of them). So off we headed to the Jardins de Luxembourg to spend a few hours in the afternoon sun, catching up on our reading and watching the old men play petanque in the park.

Tonight is the highlight of the weekend – we’ll finally finish compiling our first French tax return, a mammoth this year with over 30 pages (mostly relating to our bank accounts held outside France – the French are obsessed with the notion that everyone is harbouring their money off-shore and not declaring it. Which, in most cases, is true. I read that, as a nation, the French massively under-declare their tax. It’s something of a national pastime to see how much you can get past the tax inspectors). We’ve just about gotten our heads around it and will post it off tomorrow to avoid the last-minute rush at the end of the month.

Waiting for my blog updates is a little like waiting for a bus – none come for ages, then two come at once. I suspect that’s probably a case of when I have time versus when I don’t, but whatever the reason, there will be two updates today.

We’re into the summer season of public holidays in France. Yesterday was a public holiday, and nearly everyone in the country takes today off to make a four-day weekend. Anne-Laure was left stranded in Paris by Neil (who, due to his UK contract, was forced to work on Thursday and Friday) so we took pity on her and had her over for dinner. It was also a great excuse for me to see my local butcher about a beautiful rack of lamb.

So cold cucumber & mint soup to start, rack of lamb with balsamic reduction, roast potatoes, and long-stemmed broccoli, and a tarte aux fraises for dessert, all washed down with a bottle of Côtes de Provence to mark the beginning of summer. It’s nice to finally have some time off to get back into the kitchen and begin cooking properly again. Picard’s frozen foods are a Godsend when you’re busy during the week, but they’re no substitute for the real deal.

Anyhow, a nearly perfect execution. Nearly. The balsamic reduction was more complicated than I had imagined, so it is understandable that I forgot to add the seared cherry tomatoes I had so carefully selected (even having made a special shopping trip to find tomatoes that were still on the vine so they would look nice on the place). They were meant to be the centre-piece on the place, but luckily the lamb turned out so perfectly that no one noticed. Until Aude asked “what are these tomatoes doing here by the stove? Did you mean to use them?” Never mind, they’ll go nicely with some pasta, shrimp, white wine and basil tonight.

Sadly, Anne Laure had to drag herself into work today – but Aude and I managed to take the “pont” and had the day off. Aude suggested we head down to my favourite Vietnamese restaurant for something to eat – so off we went. It’s a little hole-in-the-wall near Tolbiac, but it’s one of my favourite restaurants in Paris for lunch. Quick, cheap, and the food is great.

Song Huong Restaurant in Paris

Song Huong Restaurant, just around the corner from Tolbiac Metro and one of my favourites. Many thanks to Julien for introducing me to it!

This place is always busy, as is the restaurant next door, which specializes in pho. Both are cheap and cheerful, but I prefer this one as it has a wider variety of food (the other one serves nothing but pho in about 16 different combinations) and I think the quality is a little better. There are typically waits to get into both, but the one next door is always busier after having found its way into Lonely Planet. Neil insists that his Vietnamese place is better – we’ve yet to experience it ourselves (any time you want to invite us, Neil, we’ll be happy to join you!) but for my money, this place is pretty good.

After lunch, I headed up to Concorde to hit WH Smith, the English language bookstore. I rarely buy anything here – the choice is limited and the books are all twice the price, but it’s still a great way to pass an afternoon. And the walk back from the bookstore to the apartment, through the Jardins des Tulieries, is a nice 30-minute stroll, perfect for people-watching.

Photographically-speaking, I’ve been uninspired recently, hardly taking any photos at all. The weather was beautiful and I was convinced I could find something to snap, even if it was just touristy shots of Paris. “Getting back onto my horse” and all that. So here are a few shots of touristy Paris on a perfect spring afternoon. Wish you were here?

Jardins des Tuileries, Paris

Looking down the Jardins des Tuileries

Tour Eiffel from the Jardins des Tuileries

Tour Eiffel from the Jardins des Tuileries

Statue with pigeon, Paris

You know what they say… Some days, you’re the pigeon. Other days, you’re the statue.

Sunbathers on the lawn in front of the Louvre

Sunbathers on the lawn in front of the Louvre. The trick to enjoying the sunny weather in Paris is to find your patch of green grass, stake your claim, and soak up the sun.

Louvre

Looking into the courtyard at the Louvre

Louvre

Detail of one of the buildings at the Louvre

Finding solitude at the Louvre, a quiet corner

Paris is an interesting city. Despite throngs of tourists, there is nearly always a quiet place to lose yourself if you look hard enough.

Pont des Arts, Paris

Tourists take over the Pont des Arts, enjoying the good weather.

View of Seine from Pont des Arts, Paris

A view of the Seine from the Pont des Arts. I didn’t notice until after I had taken the shot that someone had drawn a cheeky smiley face on the lamp. Which I think makes it even better.

French car, Parisian parking.

French car, Parisian parking. Not a centimetre to spare!