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Archive for April, 2007

Easter morning and I couldn’t sleep, probably a result of overindulgence the night before and the silly round pillows that the French seem to insist on. So I headed out to explore the town before sunrise.

My favourite discovery was a road named ‘Grand Rue’ – an alleyway winding through the town that was no more than 1.5m wide.

We went to Easter Mass at the Abbaye de la Celle, just beside the hotel and where we be getting married in September. We learned a few things about the abbey – most importantly, bring a sweater! It’s very cold inside.

We also met with priest who will be marrying us. He’s quite young and seems very friendly – he spent seven years in Mexico and a year in the US, and he’s quite excited to do some of the service in English. I must admit, I was a little taken aback when this monk, wearing his grey wool habit, pulled out a Palm Pilot to verify dates. Never let it be said that the Catholic Church is backwards, at least not technologically.

Saturday morning we were up early to visit the town hall in Roquebrune, where we need to submit all of our paperwork for our civil ceremony. Part of the process is an interview with the mayor (or his delegate) to ensure that the marriage is genuine and to go over all the details for the day.

We were met by the adjunct mayor, a generously proportioned woman with an apparent predilection for sunshine and a disdain for soap. She was our first real brush with the French etat, and represented everything that is bad about the civil service in France. With little genuine power but a keen desire to demonstrate her importance, she decided to throw impediment after impediment in our way. “I’m not sure it’s possible” was her favourite response, and her interpretation of the laws governing marriage changed with the wind.

It was not the most positive meeting I’ve ever had. She seemed unimpressed when I asked whether it would be easier to elope to Las Vegas. I suspect Guantanamo detainees are treated with more respect than she afforded us.

The trauma of the town hall behind us, we headed to a much more agreeable lunch by the port in Frejus – moules frites washed down with a couple of beers. After a brief stop to look at some decorations for the wedding, we were off to Brignoles for a quick chat with the woman coordinating the details at the chateau and a champagne tasting – and then on to ‘test drive’ the hotel and restaurant at the Abbaye de la Celle.

The hotel was absolutely beautiful, with genuinely warm service and a lovely room with our own private garden. We were greeted with two glasses of wine from the vineyard in the back. After we’d settled in, we went into the Alain Ducasse restaurant and had a lovely dinner of asparagus with kumquat sauce, grilled fish with roast potatoes, caramelised pork with stir-fried vegetables, cheese, and a chocolate fondant. The food lived up to the hype – it was a lovely evening. Stuffed to the seams, we trundled off to bed.

Friday was all about wedding plans. And exploring the differences between French and English business practices. And me generally getting frustrated by being dragged around France without accomplishing much.

Our morning started out successfully enough. Aude was up early to get a blood test to get her medical certificate allowing us to be married. Afterwards, we went down to the local doctor together to ask if he would sign my certificate. Certifying precisely nothing, as no blood test is required for men. He signed it, seemingly a little confused with the whole procedure, and took my blood pressure so I didn’t feel like I was walking away empty-handed. 130/70, pretty good considering the stress of planning a wedding.

Apparently in this part of the country, a doctor’s job is more about funerals and less about marriages. Something about changing demographics and all that.

We jumped in the car and made our way to Lorgues to meet with the florist. After a little swearing and sweating on my part, a two-way trip down a one-way street, and a little honking and pointing by the locals, we’d found a place to park. We met with the florist, a colourful little man named Thibault with a partner who looked like a camp version of Gerard Depardieu in Green Card, and went over what we wanted.

Mission accomplished, we set out for our second appointment of the day. Wine tasting. Which, oddly enough, I expected to involve tasting. Of wine. How wrong I was!

No, I was told upon arriving, tasting the wine was no good. It was too early in the afternoon, too close to us having eaten lunch. It wouldn’t be a good tasting. Besides, we hadn’t chosen our wedding menu yet, so any tasting would be meaningless without context. Much better to buy several bottles and try them later with food. It seemed to matter little that I’d dragged myself halfway across Europe to be physically present to taste this wine.

I should probably explain some of the context here. We’re having our wedding reception at a chateau. Part of the deal is that we drink their wine – non-negotiable. So already the wine tasting is a bit of a farce, as we’re stuck with it whether we like it or not.

Second, we’re hardly taking Chateau Lafite. This is ordinary, everyday wine. So arguing about whether our palate was in a suitable state was a little like arguing that I was using the wrong glass and not appreciating the fullness of flavour in my can of Coors.

In the end, we took the wines home and tried them with dinner. The verdict? The Chardonnay was undrinkable plonk (which, even with my lunch-tainted palate, I could have decided in situ at the vineyard) and the blanc de blanc is suitably inoffensive and non-descript. A little bit like Two-Buck Chuck.

The Chateau

The Chateau

The chateau

The chateau

Still smarting from the wine non-tasting incident, we made our way to the chateau to meet with the caterer. In this meeting essentially we agreed that 1) what we’d been promised was possible on the telephone was now no longer possible and 2) that we would certainly have to meet again. It took 90 minutes to ascertain this, and despite my best efforts, the caterer seemed reluctant to simply allow us to sign the paperwork, hand over the deposit, and leave before we’d heard his entire marketing pitch and quite a few pleasantries as well.

The girls posing outside the chateau

The girls posing outside the chateau

Aude is very busy planning everything...

Aude is very busy planning everything…

Our meeting having overrun, cue frantic race down the autoroute in ten-year-old Renault Clio 1.2 to try to make it to Mass at the local church. We managed to slip in just a few minutes late, slightly conspicuously as there were only about 20 other people in the very small chapel. Without the benefit of a prayer book to follow along, I did my best to follow the French service. Thankfully, it was the Passion of Christ – the same reading we’d heard in English the week before in Canterbury. Confusingly, the Mass didn’t follow conventional form – hard enough to follow in English, but even more complicated when you don’t speak the language.

Too much

It’s all too much! Aude hides in the flowers

We woke up early on Thursday morning with a sense of smugness. We had decided to avoid the long Easter queues, the traffic jams and the nightmare scenes at the security check at Heathrow, instead opting to take the train to visit Aude’s parents in the south of France. “What could go wrong?” we thought as we boarded the 8:05am service from in front of our house to Ashford.

Our trip down to Ashford was painless enough, and once we arrived there we checked in. We were through security in five minutes, then straight to the (very small) business class lounge for a cup of coffee. An hour later they called our train. We boarded, found our seats, and sat down with a look of self-righteousness. We set off from the station right on time, and a few minutes later the driver announced that we were about to enter the Channel Tunnel. With a contented look on my face, I turned to Aude and remarked “What a good decision. This is definitely easier than the whole airport struggle.”

Ominously, at that moment the train stopped in the middle of the Channel Tunnel. “A problem with the regulation,” said the driver, who had no further information to provide. Twenty minutes later and still stuck 40m under the English Channel, the driver came on to provide another update. Apparently, the train in front of us had broken down completely, and until they could move it we weren’t going anywhere. Pierre, the purser (honestly, I’m not making this up), came onto the tannoy to give us an update. “We are now twenty minutes behind schedule. Don’t worry, ze ventilation system is working properly and we are completely safe here for ze moment.”

The ventilation system failing was something I hadn’t considered until Pierre had helpfully brought it to my attention. Suddenly I was claustrophobic. More importantly, our 1-hour connection in Paris was looking less and less likely.

We finally started to move again. Allez, Pierre, allez!

We made it into Paris Gare du Nord at 13:25. Our train to the south left from Gare de Lyon at 13:50. Cue two travellers frantically sprinting across Gare du Nord to try to catch the RER D train. Luckily, we managed to push our way onto a train that was waiting at the platform (the carriage was half-empty inside, but everyone insisted on standing in the doorway so that no one else could go on. I’m suddenly thankful for the London Underground announcements asking people to “move right down inside the carriages, please”). We arrived at the RER station at Gare de Lyon at 13:45. Cue more sprinting as we tried to locate our train.

We finally boarded at 13:49. Being the last to board, there was no luggage space left except between the seats. So I figured that’s where I’d put my bags. Until Madame Crazy in the seat next to us decided to give me a stern talking to in French – apparently upset that I had moved her bag. (Come on, you silly French loon, what part of “communal luggage space” don’t you understand?) I feigned ignorance, carried on with what I was doing, then spent the rest of the trip quietly detesting the woman.

Nevermind. We’d made it. We pulled out a nice picnic lunch and a bottle of wine and settled in for the four hour trip to St Raphael. The friendly ticket inspector was even kind enough to wish us a “bon appetite!”

Our little sprint aside, the train was actually pretty stress-free. The seats on the TGV, even in second class, rival our first-class seats in the UK and are certainly more comfortable than their airline equivalents. We arrived right on time, no one hassled us about the size of our carry-on (except for Madame Crazy), we had no security nightmares, and we didn’t get stuck in traffic. All things considered, I’d take the train again.

I just wanted to wish Maria Grazia a very happy birthday this year as she turns ahem years old. We went over to her place to join her for a glass of champagne and a slice of cake, which is frankly all someone of her age can be expected to handle.

David & MG

David & MG

David & MG

David & MG

Marjo

Marjory shows off her new look, “Pretty in Pink”

Anne Laure

Anne Laure shows absolutely no evidence of having had a late night at our place the night before…

Another case of “you can’t cure stupid” brought to you by Southeastern Trains.

Our local station seems to have a high incidence of fare evaders, and consequently, we often have ticket inspectors waiting for us at the doors of our otherwise uncontrolled station. In a move to improve efficiency and reduce fare evasion, the lovely people at Southeastern have invested in some automatic ticket barriers which were installed a few weeks ago.

Our new ticket barriers

Our new ticket barriers

Our station is also unmanned about 50% of the time, meaning that you cannot buy a ticket from a real person. Instead, you need to purchase your ticket from the automated ticket machine.

Automated ticket machine

Automated ticket machine

Now here’s where someone fell off the stupid tree and hit every branch. The automated ticket machine is located inside the station, on the platform by the tracks. This arrangement worked very well before they installed the new ticket barriers.

But now we have ticket barriers outside the platform, and the ticket machine inside the platform. And yes, you guessed it. You need a ticket to get through the barriers and onto the platform.