Bon Voyage
48 hours later, I’m back on the Eurostar again after a grey, cold weekend in Paris. Despite the weather, we had a great time and caught up with some old friends.
I arrived late on Friday night and managed to convince the ticket machine at the Metro to sell me a ticket. French machines, being French, refuse to speak in Foreign, so I was left relying on my schoolboy French to get me across town. That wasn’t a problem, but trying to work out where to stick my money into the machine was – the machine was designed to take coins or credit cards, but not Euro notes – unlike the ticket machines on the Tube. So there I was, stupid tourist, trying to stick notes into a machine that clearly didn’t take them, much to the annoyance of the French.
Having finally convinced the ticket machine to take my credit card, I met Aude and her friend Anne Laure at Bastille for a few drinks. We ended up in a bohemian bar down a side street. The waitress gave me a hard time for being American…
We jumped into a cab and headed for our hotel – a nice enough place, but near the Peripherique (beware Priceline’s interpretation of “near the Eiffel Tower” – we were as near to the Eiffel Tower as I look like George Clooney).
Aude rides the Metro into Central Paris
November in Paris features a special photography month, a subject near and dear to my heart. On Saturday morning we grabbed the Metro into central Paris to see an exhibit entitled “Children of the World” by Kevin Kling (a woman, despite the name) that was being exhibited outside the Jardin du Luxembourg and where we’d seen an exhibition of the best 20th century press photography when we were last in London. It was a great exhibit despite poor weather conditions.
A group of nuns take in the exhibition
Aude looks at one of the photos in the “Children of the World” exhibition
Inside the Jardin du Lumembourg
Inside the Jardin du Lumembourg
Inside the Jardin du Lumembourg
No, not rays of light coming from her head. Rather, something to stop the pigeons crapping down her front.
Sailboat rental
It was Remembrance Day in France, with flowers placed on most of the war memorials
We spent a lot of time like this. Never underestimate a woman’s ability to shop!
We were also going to try to see the Henri Cartier-Bresson exhibit – an interest to me because he shot nearly his entire portfolio using a 50mm lens. I’ve just bought a 35mm prime lens (the digital equivalent of a 50mm lens in the digital world, and very close to what the human eye sees naturally) and have been looking for inspiration. The 35mm Nikon lens is acclaimed as one of the best Nikon lenses ever produced, but I can’t seem to get it to work its magic for me. (Incidentally, all of the photos in this blog entry were taken with the 35mm lens – your feedback and constructive criticism is welcome!)
Lunch was a couscous at a restaurant on the Left Bank – with a friendly cat that took to Aude immediately.
Proof that you can also find a Mexican in Paris!
As we walked past an Italian restaurant, Aude suggested I snap a photo of the chap in the window as a potential boyfriend for our friend MG. Innocent as I am, this is what I snapped.
Proof that Aude is a bigger pervert than me: Laughing at my picture, she pointed out that I’d entirely missed the point (no pun intended). This was the fellow she had in mind!
We decided to walk from the Jardin of Luxembourg towards Monparnasse, where the Cartier-Bresson exhibit was being held, doing some shopping on the way. Cue the first of many times getting lost in Paris (and the first of many sexist jokes from me). Due to a slightly unscheduled detour, we spent the afternoon shopping and gave up on the Cartier-Bresson exhibit due to my aching feet. On the upside, I did get a kiss from a strange woman – it was her hen night and she was kissing every passing man!
In a scene that was to become uncomfortably familiar, we find ourselves in front of a map, not knowing quite where we are…
We still had a few hours to kill and needed an activity that didn’t involve a lot of walking, so I suggested we catch a bateau mouche. Cue the second of many times getting lost in Paris. Determined to catch the bateau mouche at Pont Neuf (but holding the map upside-down), we ended up walking around nearly the entire Ile de la Cite before finally giving up. Instead, we went to Plan B and headed for Alcazar, the Conran restaurant I had booked for dinner.
Despite being unable to travel by bateau mouche, I was able to take a few pictures of Paris by night – when Paris is at its most beautiful in my opinion
After an ‘Ultra Violet’ for Aude and a Manhattan for me, plus a couple of kirs, we were in a much better mood. We went downstairs for dinner and had a beautiful meal – Aude started with foie gras and then had venison, I started with escargot (leaving me smelling like a true Frenchman all night) and followed with veal. I asked the sommelier for a wine recommendation and he suggested a Corbieres. When the wine was presented, it was a bottle of vintage Pomerol – lucky I paid attention to his suggestion and didn’t take the wine that arrived at my table – it would have been a very expensive mistake!
Sunday morning we met some old friends from Canterbury for a Moroccan brunch – Alain and Faouzia, Julien and his girlfriend Karine. I did my best to order my breakfast in French, but asked that I be served no eggs – and mixed up my article. Cue more piss-taking from a French waitress (and more muttering of C’est pourquoi tout le monde deteste les Parisiens). Despite clarification from my French-speaking friends, she still screwed up my order. No tip for her – he who laughs last, laughs best.
In any case, it was great to catch up, and my friends were all pleased to hear all the gossip and goings-on that had happened in Canterbury since they’d left (although Julien was ahead of the game, being a regular reader of my blog).
Julien & Karine
Alain, Faouzia, Julien, Karine and Aude outside the restaurant
Alain, Faouzia, Julien, Karine and Matthew outside the restaurant
L’église Saint Eustache
The Opera
Aude poses for a photo
Matthew poses with the smallest flowers he’s ever seen at the Grand Hyatt in Paris
Cafe culture – what Paris is a famous for!
Matthew standing in Place Vendome
No trip to Paris would be complete without a photo of the Eiffel Tower at sunset, would it?
Paris Metro
We left them mid-afternoon and went for a walk, stopping for a coffee at the Grand Hyatt, then walking down Place Vendome and through the Jardin du Tuleries. Back to the hotel, then we grabbed a cab which took years off my life (and reminded me: I need to update my will) until we finally arrived at Gare du Nord.
Aude smiles on Eurostar despite her reluctance to go back home
Matthew looking somewhat more skeptical
Beats a McDonalds!
Sauteed veal on Eurostar. Remember when food on the plane was like this?
A few hours later, and here I am again on the Eurostar (today’s celebrity sighting was James Blunt, having a drink in the Eurostar business class lounge), heading back to Canterbury at 300km per hour, eating another lovely dinner and drinking a glass of wine. I trust I’ll be greeted by two very friendly, very hungry looking cats.
Back to work tomorrow, but only for four days – we’re off to a Scottish wedding on Thursday night. Such a jet-setting life we lead. I’ve already packed my man-skirt.
2 Responses to Bon Voyage
Sylvette [Visitor]
November 15th, 2006 at 16:56
La photo de l’église ” A church outside Les Halles” est l’église SAINT EUSTACHE dont voici l’histoire et les caractéristiques ci dessous :
L’église Saint-Eustache (Paris) est une église dont les origines remontent à la renaissance. On trouve dans l’église un des 2 exemplaires connus des Disciples d’Emmaüs de Rubens peint vers 1611.
René Benoist, curé de Saint-Eustache en 1569, acquit une telle influence sur les paroissiens, qu’il fut surnommé le Pape des Halles. En 1578, il fit imprimer une requête afin d’obtenir des secours pour l’achèvement de son église. Commencée en 1532, elle n’avait pu être terminée, et Benoist lui-même n’avait pas encore entrepris de travaux malgré la « plus grande affluence de peuple qu’en aucune église paroissiale de la France et par aventure de la chrétienté ». La lettre obtint sans doute quelque somme d’argent, car on construisit à cette époque plusieurs piliers de la nef et plusieurs autres fenêtres.
La partie inachevée (que l’on peut apercevoir sur la partie gauche de la photo – la tour s’arrête brutalement) fut réalisée entre 1617 et 1624. L’église, déjà grande, aurait probablement atteint une taille et une hauteur impressionnante si elle avait été terminée.
La tour non finie de Saint-Eustache
Une église de dimension royale [modifier]
L’édifice fut longtemps considéré comme une église royale grâce à sa proximité avec le haut lieu de la monarchie, le Louvre.
Louis XIV y fut baptisé, Colbert, Scaramouche, Rameau et la mère de Mozart y furent enterrés. Sully et Pomponne s’y sont marié.
Tombeau de Colbert
Les grandes orgues [modifier]
C’est l’un des trois plus grands orgues de France, derrière l’orgue de Notre-Dame-de-Paris (107 jeux) et Saint-Sulpice (102 jeux).
Depuis 1989, il est composé de :
5 claviers de 61 notes et un pédalier de 32 notes
101 jeux, 147 rangs, 8000 tuyaux
St Eustache possède un orgue depuis le XVIe siècle, mais on ne dispose que de très peu d’informations sur sa composition d’origine. L’orgue de facture classique de Saint Germain des Près lui fut ensuite attribué (XVIIIe siècle ?). Remanié au début du XIXe siècle par les facteurs Daublaine et Callinet, il est détruit par le feu en 1844, peu de temps après son inauguration. Reconstruit en 1854 par Barker (3 claviers), reconstruit à nouveau après la Commune puis modifié par l’organiste Joseph Bonnet dans les années 20 et 30 (l’orgue passe à 4 claviers).
Les grandes orgues de Saint-Eustache ont été reconstruites presque intégralement par le facteur hollandais Van Den Heuvel en 1989, à l’exception du buffet qui est d’origine et de quelques jeux dont les grands tuyaux de la Montre qui datent de 1854. Les grandes orgues de Saint-Eustache font partie des plus prestigieuses du monde actuellement, en grande partie grâce à l’aura exceptionnelle de son titulaire depuis 1963 : Jean Guillou. Elles firent même l’objet d’une visite exceptionnelle de la reine Elisabeth II d’Angleterre, après leur inauguration par M. Jacques Chirac, alors Maire de Paris.
Gratiane [Visitor]
December 19th, 2006 at 04:18
Petit commentaire un peu moins historique que la maman d’Aude :
Paris “by night” c’est magnifique mais Paris “by night” au moment de Noel c’est encore plus magique avec toutes ses illuminations.
Je savais bien que vous auriez du venir en même temps que moi à Paris…
Nous y retournons le WE du 3 et 4 février. Je sais, Aude les soldes seront peut-être déjà bien avancées mais je n’ai pas réussi à modifier la date du congrès de François…!
Alors si ça vous dit…